Paul Hobbs

He is part of the world golden wine trilogy, alongside Michell Rolland and Alberto Antonini. They are the three most acclaimed international wine consultants. They spend the whole year traveling around the world, making wines at diverse latitudes. Although he keeps a low-profile, compared to the other two flying winemakers, Paul Hobbs has gained the respect of the specialized press and winery owners. In this interview, he shares his opinions regarding Argentinian wines.

-  How many wineries are you currently advising?
Including the ones in Argentina, I'm consultant to 35 wineries around the world.

- Flying winemakers are accused by critics of making all wines identical...
I think that this expression depends on winemakers. I must admit that there are some winemakers that have recipes for their wines, but the majority makes wines with a regional character and that is what I am interested in. I believe that the term "flying winemakers" is a negative definition, because some people might thing that I do not care about their wines because I come and leave, but that does not reflect my experience, especially when it comes to Argentina, where I have a real attachment.

- What are the competitive advantages of Argentinian wine?
They are interesting wines, with good energy, with great value. Moreover, the country has a romantic identity which people like, it has the image of the gaucho, it has tango. Basically, another characteristic of Argentinian wine is that it is very fruity. Many of the problems faced by wine worldwide have to do with prices being unattractive.

- How did the Viña Cobos undertaking begin?
For over 9 years, I worked as consultant to Nicolás Catena. Then, in 1997, I decided it was time to start my own Project and I wanted to fin dan Argentinian partner. I was lucky to meet Luis (Barraud) and Andrea (Marchiori), with whom I connected really well and shared a similar vision of the project. Mi idea was to focus on Malbec and to find the best regions in Mendoza to develop it. They liked the project and that was the origin of Viña Cobos.

- What do you think is the reason behind the success of Viña Cobos?
We are successful mainly because we are crazy. We are obsessed with making good wines rather that with making money. Quality is our single obsession.

- What do you think of the fact that Argentina's growth is sustained by Malbec?
Argentina has no competition when it comes to Malbec, but there is life after Malbec. The bottom line is that Argentinian wines are first discovered through Malbec and then a natural evolution leads to other varieties. I do not believe that there is a great market for Torrontés or Bonarda, I see them as niche wines. But other wines do have good chances, such as Chardonnay, which I believe will have a great evolution in the next five years.

- Do you believe that wineries are setting the development of other varieties aside because they are too busy with Malbec?
As of now, they are all focusing on Malbec and a few wineries are seeking other varieties. Anyways, we cannot expect other varieties to undergo the same phenomenon experienced by Malbec. I do not believe there is an explosion involving Cabernet, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah.  Overall, Argentina can make a great job with all of these varietals, but I believe that wineries should pay more attention to the development of their portfolios.

- In your opinion, what are the problems that Argentina will have to face?
To be sure, the economic problems and the inflation issue are making Argentina less competitive. This is definitely something to worry about and we should all take action about it.

- What are the best terroirs for Argentinian wine?
The best terroirs are Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, in general. They are potentially the best regions. I must mention some areas in Maipú and San Rafael as well, which can give us surprising results. To be more specific, I would say that the best regions are: Tupungato, Tunuyán and Vista Flores; these areas have distinguishing features and a lot of diversity, offering consumers many different Malbecs. The same can be said about Agrelo, Pedriel, and Cruz Piedra.

- Do you have a favorite region?
I like diversity; I do not particularly have a favorite region.

- What potential do you find in areas like San Juan, Patagonia and Salta?
I believe these regions have the potential to develop the varietal, but they need lots of efforts and investments. I think that those who are willing to make the effort will be rewarded by getting good wines, but there is much work to be done, because each of these regions have peculiar characteristics one needs to study and understand.

- You have been acclaimed by the international press for your wines. To what extent do you think wine critics influence sales?
Gatekeepers have a large influence on wineries. I am not saying it is the only factor, but they have a significant impact when it comes to opening doors. The specialized press and sommeliers are like a double-edged weapon -they may harm you as much as they may help you.

• Link: http://www.winesur.com/ver_nota.php?nota=17614

Source: winesur.com - María Soledad González

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